Recently we travelled to Australia overlanding through South Australia, Northern Territories and Western Australia.
After a few days in Sydney we flew to Adelaide on July 31st to collect an overland prepared 4WD truck. We then spent a few days in The Ikara- Flinders Ranges NP exploring Bunyeroo and Barachina Gorges. Departing the Flinders we made our way north on the Outback Highway to Marree to drive the Oodnadatta Track toward William Creek.
The day was overcast but rain was not forecasted, the South Australia Road Department Reader Board and website indicated the track was open. I double checked conditions at the Marree Roadhouse.
We left Marree at 2 PM then the fun began. What should have been a 2 1/2 HR trip to William Creek took 5+ hours and arrived well after dark.
The first 150 KM went well, we passed several trucks coming from William Creek. The next 25 KM the track was a little damp but nothing concerning as trucks were still oncoming. The last 25 KM the track really deteriorated, apparently it had rained a little. It takes very little precipitation to turn the red clay roads into slippery thick sticky mud. No more oncoming trucks.
We slowed to a crawl but it didn't prevent us from constantly fishtailing with mud slinging everywhere. Nowhere to pull off without getting stuck so we continued on. It got dark making matters worse. We finally made it to William Creek, a very welcome sight and a great relief. We walked into the William Creek Hotel/Roadhouse, several people were in the bar and dining area. The Barkeep says you may be here a while with all the others. Apparently sometime after we left Marree the SA Road Dept closed the track. The track was closed behind us, closed onward to Oodnadatta and closed to Coober Pedy, our next destination. There are severe fines if you are caught driving on closed tracks.
The William Creek Hotel prides itself as being the most remote pub in Australia.
The tracks dry out almost as fast as they become wet and impassable. The weather cleared and by noon the next day the track opened towards Oodnadatta and Coober Pedy but was still closed behind us to Marree.
The 163 KM William Creek Road to Coober Pedy was still a little wet and slick in places. We passed one overturned 4WD truck.
In Coober Pedy we explored the Opal Mining Industry and nearby Kanku Breakaways Conservation Park.
Next we camped a couple of days in the Alice Springs area and shopped for supplies etc.
Departing Alice Springs we headed west through the Tjornita/ West Macdonnell Range NP exploring the gorges and camping at Red Bank Gorge. We headed south via Larapinta Dr to Warraka NPcamping at King Creek Station. We proceeded to Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the Olgas in Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP camping at Ayers Rock campground and exploring the NP.
We returned to Alice Springs and made a side trip to Ewaninga Aboriginal Rock Engravings a short drive away.
The day we were to depart Alice Springs to drive the Tanami Road, a 3 day 1040 KM drive on a remote mostly unsealed road to Halls Creek the temperature shot up into the high 90's. The forecast for Halls Creek was 100°. Being an old guy and my wife and I being from the Pacific Northwest we do not tolerate that kind of heat very well. We decided to forgo driving and wild camping on the Tanami and head north and hope the high temps would subside. When we planned the trip I researched the temperature ranges. The forecast temperatures were clearly 10 to 15 degrees hotter. The locals were commenting on it and the weather forecasters said this was Australia's hottest cool dry season on record.
Leaving Alice Springs we traveled north camping at Tennant Creek and Katherine with temperatures at 98°. The tent felt like sleeping in an Easy Bake Oven. The temperature didn't drop into the 70's until well after midnight and was hot again by 9 AM. From Katherine we traveled through Victoria River Crossing to Kununurra. With the temperature at 100° we found a hotel with AC. We reevaluated the next portion of our trip. We had planned to camp and hike for the next 2 + weeks at Purnululu NP, Parry Lagoon, at sites along the Gibb River Road and Mitchell Falls in the Kimberley Mountains before heading to Broome. The forecast was for temperatures to remain in the 95 - 100 degree range. Due to the extreme heat we reluctantly cut this portion out of the trip.
Too hot to hike or spend several days in camp with little prospect for shade.
From Kununurra we traveled west through Halls Creek to Fitzroy Crossing and another hotel with AC. We headed to Broome on the coast camping at the Broome Bird Observatory on Roebuck Bay. An onshore breeze provided some relief from the heat. We explored Broome visiting Cable Beach, a Lighthouse, Town Beach and jetty and the Pearl Oyster Industry Museum. From the 1800's up to the 1950's the Pearlers harvested oyster for the Mother of Pearl on the shells after the industry collapsed they turned to producing cultured pearls. We went north on the Dampier Peninsula to Beagle Bay and returned to Broome. After Broome we traveled south along the Coral Coast stopping at Karratha and finally finding some relief from the heat in Exmouth. We explored the Cape Range NP and Ningaloo Marine Park. From there on to Hamelin Pool and Jurien Bay to visit Nambung NP (geologic pinnacle formations) and Lesueur NP at the beginning of wildflower season. Then on to Perth to visit a friend.
There was cause for a celebration after this trip. Australia is the 7th Continent my wife and I visited and the 4th Continent we overlanded on.
We hired the truck from RedSands 4WD Campers. In my research I determined they had the best outfitted trucks. The only restrictions they imposed were driving the Telegraph Track, Frasier Island, Canning Stock Route and crossing Yardie Creek in the Cape Range NP. Many Hire companies impose more driving restrictions.
The truck was a 4WD Toyota Hilux 2.8 Litre Diesel 4 door that can accommodate 5 passengers. It had a Norweld type canopy, a hardshell RTT and a soft shell fold out RTT.
The truck was fully kitted for camping. Linens, blankets, pillows, USB ports for charging devices, GPS, maps, fridge, 80 L water tank, cooktop, 2 gas bottles, cutlery, 2 tables, chairs, and an awning. Three spare tyres, UHF Radio and a Personal Locating Beacon. Basically throw your luggage in, shop for food and be on your way.
With the extra large fuel tank the truck had a range of 1,000 KM.